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5. Samurai class woman's outer robe or kosode, koshimaki type Japan 19th c. plain weave silk, embroidered silk with couched gold thread |
In the wardrobe of the women of the aristocracy, the decoration on kimono corresponded to ideas of refinement, like that of the outer robe n°9, the koshimaki. Traditionally made of fine stiff dark brown silk, it is covered with small auspicious motifs. Here, couched gold threads design tortoiseshell motifs, always symbols of long life, which are strewn across the robe but concentrated on the shoulders and at the hem in a composition which is both free and ordered. These geometric forms contrast with the delicacy of embroidered branches of plum blossom and field flowers which accompany them. In summer, this coat is worn over a lighter kimono, draped nonchalantly and held only at the waist by the obi. Itemcode: 9 |